Cerulean waters lap against our yellow canoe as yet another rainstorm threatens overhead. Dozens of jagged icefields ring this alpine lake, but this morning the towering peaks are playing hide-and-seek with the clouds.
The muggy air is soundless except for the slosh of paddles and the occasional call of loons as we round a bend in the 23-kilometre-long lake. It’s past 10 a.m., but we’re still ahead of the motorized tours that shuttle sightseers from historic Maligne Lake boathouse to tiny Spirit Island, one of the Rockies’ most photographed spots. Our two canoes and one kayak are heading another 10 kilometres beyond to the remote south end at Coronet Creek campground