The Campsite at Poverty Rock can only be reached by river, but it’s well worth our six hours of paddling to the remote spot. A stone pedestal in the middle of blowing Prairie grasses offers a bird’s-eye view of the expansive southern Alberta landscape. It reveals the winding Milk River, surrounded by a big blue sky, sandstone cliffs and green, rolling hills. Etched in the rock are modern-day versions of the world-renowned writings to come: initials and other drawings made by previous campers. At sunset, as we explore the area, a fiery orange glow illuminates the rock, along with the cliffs around us. It’s enough to take your breath away — and makes you wonder what’s around the next bend.